The climb to the Edakkal Caves takes about forty-five minutes and a fair number of steps, but the reward is twofold: a sweeping view over the Western Ghats and Neolithic carvings chiselled into the rock some six thousand years ago.

Wayanad rewards travellers who like their scenery with a bit of effort. The bamboo rafting programme on the reservoir behind Banasura Sagar Dam is run by the forest department and drifts you past submerged hills that peek out of the water like islands.

Wildlife is the region's other draw. Muthanga sanctuary's jeep safari moves through teak and bamboo forest where elephants are routine and, if you are very lucky, a tiger's alarm-call chorus announces one nearby.

Go slow, carry a light rain jacket even in season, and let the plantations set the pace — Wayanad is not a place to rush.